A Garden of Eatin' - Growing Fresh Vegetables for Your Rabbit
One of the best things about having pet rabbits in my life is that it justifies my obsession with gardening. After all, no matter how much I plant, they'll always eat up the extras if we humans can't! This also saves on grocery bills all summer, improves my bunnies' overall health by providing a variety of vegetables every day, and allows for environmentally friendly litter disposal since I compost using CareFresh biodegradable litter and then fertilize my garden with it in the spring.
The vegetables in this table are recommended for rabbits by MCRS and also do well in Minnesota's difficult growing climate. Asterisked veggies (*) contain Vitamin A, which is especially important in rabbit diets. A pound sign (#) indicates vegetables that are low in calcium, and may help to prevent bladder stones and sludge. In contrast, veggies followed by a percent sign (%) have high amounts of calcium, which may contribute to bladder stones or sludge; give these to rabbits in small amounts. Similarly, limit your rabbit's intake of those marked with an exclamation point (!), since they contain high levels of oxalates (the salts of oxalic acid) which can accumulate in the system and cause toxicity over time.
Some other favorites with my rabbits are kohlrabi, swiss chard, sage, thyme, and strawberry leaves. Also consider that the clover and dandelion greens and flowers* growing naturally in your yard make delicious MCRS-approved rabbit greens after being washed well. In contrast, the following might find their way into your garden, but be sure they don't end up in your bunny's stomach: beans, potatoes, iceberg and light-colored leaf lettuce, and rhubarb. They may be tasty for people, but they're at best non-nutrative and at worst toxic for rabbits!
An alternative for apartment-dwelling lagomorphs, or for bunny owners who want fresh veggies during the winter, is to use houseplant pots to grow those veggies preferred by bunnies. Indoor gardening can provide yearround treats!
Step 1: Planning
First off, plan your garden ahead of time. I like to keep a journal throughout the growing season, recording which varieties did best and which met with the approval of my furry friends. This is the place to start, making a list of the varieties you want to try this year.
To get a head start on the season, try starting your plants inside under a grow light; the basement is an ideal location. Artificial lights need to be 4 to 6 inches away from seed trays, and putting the trays near a window is a good way to supplement artificial light. Use sterile containers, flats, and starter mix, and try soaking the seeds overnight before planting to help them germinate. Seeds must be warm and moist to sprout; I've had success putting the trays in white trash bags until sprouts appear.
Step 2: Preparing
Pick a spot in your yard with good drainage, most soil, and full sun; be sure the spot doesn't compete with existing trees and bushes for light and soil. Rows should run east and west, with the tallest vegetables on the north side to avoid overshadowing smaller plants. Remove any turf in that area, then till the soil and amend it with fertilizer; remember that organic is best for bunny. Again, composting bunny's litterbox leavings reduces landfill waste and provides you with slow-release organic fertilizer with which to improve your soil.
Put up fencing and other deterrents to keep wild bunnies out, since your garden is likely to be as tasty to them as to your pet!!
Step 3: Planting
In Minnesota, the last frost in the spring is usually early to mid-May (May 3 – 12) in the south and the end of May (May 23 – June 1) for the north. Buy seeds and seedlings at your local garden center and plant after the last frost in your area. Note that southern Minnesota is in USDA zone 4 (the Twin Cities are in zone 4a), while most of northern Minnesota is zone 3; avoid buying plants or seeds suitable only for zones higher than 4, since they won't tolerate our hot summers, short growing season, and cold winters. Also, remember that the growing season is only about 140 days in the south and 105 days in the north of Minnesota, so check seed packages to be sure they'll be fruitful within that time.
Step 4: Maintaining
Weed your garden throughout the summer, and water as needed. Watering is best done in the morning to reduce the risk of disease and leaf burn; getting leaves wet in the evening promotes fungus growth in the cool of the night, and the hot midday sun is only intensified when it shines through the water standing on leaves as a result of daytime hydrating. Mulch to reduce the need for watering; many communities have public-access woodchip piles for their citizens to use for this purpose.
Reseed midway through season to fill in empty spaces or replant already-picked rows, since this will extend your harvest. Prune and train as needed.
If pest or disease control is necessary, use environmentally sound methods. Chemical pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides should be a last resort, and vegetables should always be washed before being presented to hungry bunnies; even if your garden is chemical-free, your neighbor's lawn treatment can still waft over your property line. Try removing infected leaves or branches rather than spraying with fungicides, and removing insects individually if large enough. Sticky traps can trap common insect pests, and plantings can be covered with netting or row covers to keep bugs off.
Step 5: Harvesting
Pick veggies as they ripen, leaving the roots of leafy greens to produce more. The first frost in the fall is generally the very end of September (September 26 – October 5) for southern Minnesota, and the middle of September (September 11 – 20) for northern Minnesota, so be sure your harvest is in before then. You can also try collecting seeds and saving them in a cool, dry location until next spring.
In the fall, mulch perennials for the winter to reduce wind and sun damage and keep the soil consistantly cold throughout the winter. Shredded leaves work well and are usually readily available at this time of year. Next season, you'll already be a step ahead by the time you notice your perennials coming up again!
